Iceland Travel Guide logo Iceland Travel GuideLOCAL TRAVEL AGENCY IN ICELAND My trip Talk to a local

Borgarfjörður eystri

East IcelandVillagePuffins in summerFree entry
Written by locals at Iceland Travel Guide · Checked by Heiða · Updated October 2026
BORGARFJÖRÐUR EYSTRI IN SHORT

Borgarfjörður eystri (Bakkagerði) is a fishing village of about 100 people on a remote fjord in East Iceland, about 70 km (around 1 hour) from Egilsstaðir. It is known for the puffins at Hafnarhólmi, the elf hill Álfaborg and the hiking around Dyrfjöll. It is free to visit and open all year, and most people spend half a day to a full day there, longer if hiking.

ON THIS PAGE
Quick factsHistoryGetting thereVillageSee & doBest time to visitSafety tipsFacilitiesMapNearbyWhere to stayFAQ

About Borgarfjörður eystri

This is one of the quieter corners of East Iceland, reached by a scenic mountain road from Egilsstaðir, and many travellers and locals rate it among the most beautiful places in the country. The village itself, Bakkagerði, is tiny, with colourful rhyolite peaks on one side and the Dyrfjöll mountains on the other. People come for two very different reasons: an unusually easy puffin colony by the harbour, and some of the best hiking in Iceland.

The small-boat harbour is about 5 km beyond the village church. Next to it is Hafnarhólmi, an islet joined to the land, where puffins nest close enough to the stairs and viewing platforms that you can watch them without binoculars. The boardwalks keep visitors off the burrows, so it is one of the safest and most accessible puffin colonies in the country, with no boat trip and no cliff edge. Kittiwakes, fulmars and eiders nest here too.

Behind the village, a rocky hill called Álfaborg ("Elf Rock") is said in local folklore to be the home of the Queen of the Elves, and a short path leads up to it for a view over the village and fjord. Further inland, trails lead toward Stórurð, a boulder-strewn landscape with small turquoise pools below the Dyrfjöll peaks.

Quick facts

RegionEast Iceland
Also calledBakkagerði (the village itself)
PopulationAbout 100
From EgilsstaðirAbout 70 km on Route 94, around 1 hour by car
From ReykjavíkRoughly 700 km; a multi-day trip, not a day trip
Puffin colonyHafnarhólmi, by the harbour, about 5 km beyond the village
Puffin seasonMid-April to mid-August, best in June and July
EntryFree
Opening hoursVillage and viewpoints open all year; the longer hiking trails are for summer
Time neededHalf a day to a full day, more with hiking

Home of the Elf Queen

Álfaborg, the rocky knoll at the edge of the village, is one of the best-known elf sites in Icelandic folklore. The name means Elf Rock or City of the Elves, and it is the 'borg' that gave the fjord its name. People believed it was the seat of the highest-ranking elves in East Iceland, and many locals will still tell you that the queen of the Icelandic elves lives there. The area is said to have more elf dwellings than anywhere else in the country.

The village's isolation, tucked behind a mountain road that can close in winter, has helped keep both its folklore and its landscape distinct from the busier parts of East Iceland closer to the Ring Road.

The painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval grew up here, and the landscape stayed in his work. In 1914 he painted the altarpiece for the village church: Christ giving the Sermon on the Mount, standing on Álfaborg with the Dyrfjöll mountains behind him.

How to get to Borgarfjörður eystri

By carFrom Egilsstaðir, take Route 94 over the mountain pass to Borgarfjörður eystri. The road is paved but climbs to a reasonably high pass, so check conditions before driving in winter or bad weather.
On a guided tourSome East Iceland day tours and multi-day itineraries include Borgarfjörður eystri, particularly during puffin season, though it is less commonly covered by general Ring Road tours than more central stops.
By public transportPublic transport options to the village are limited; a rental car is the practical way to visit.
ParkingFree parking is available near the harbour and at the main trailheads for Stórurð and other hikes.

Route 94 crosses a mountain pass that can be closed by snow outside summer, so this is easiest to reach between roughly May and September.

What to see in Borgarfjörður eystri

The village sights are all within a short walk of each other.

Álfaborg, the Elf RockA low rocky hill and nature reserve that rises like a natural fortress beside the village. An easy path over grass and gravel leads to the top in a few minutes, with a view over the village, the fields and the fjord.
Bakkagerðiskirkja and Kjarval's altarpieceThe white church at the foot of Álfaborg was consecrated in 1901; before that the parish church stood at the parsonage Desjarmýri. Go in to see the altarpiece that Kjarval painted in 1914, one of his best-known works.
Lindarbakki turf houseA small red-painted turf house in the middle of the village and a favourite with photographers. It is privately owned and lived in during the summer, so look from the road and respect the owners' privacy.
Bræðslan music festivalEach July the old fish factory hosts Bræðslan, a small music festival known for good line-ups and a close, friendly atmosphere. Emilíana Torrini and Damien Rice are among those who have played. The village is very busy that weekend, so book early.
Midnight sun and driftwoodIn June and early July the evenings at Hafnarhólmi are long and light, and the birds are active late. Around the village you will also notice sculptures made from driftwood.

Puffins and hiking

Two very different draws sit close together here.

Hafnarhólmi puffinsA short footbridge leads to a small island where puffins nest right beside the viewing platform during the breeding season, one of the easiest puffin encounters in Iceland.
Stórurð hikeA longer trail into a boulder field with small turquoise glacial pools below the jagged Dyrfjöll peaks, popular with experienced hikers in summer.

Puffins arrive by mid-April and leave by mid-August. Outside those months you will not see them here.

Best time to visit Borgarfjörður eystri

Summer (June–August)Puffins present, the mountain road reliably open, and the best conditions for the longer hikes toward Dyrfjöll and Stórurð.
WinterThe village is quiet and the mountain pass can close with snow, so this is a much harder time to visit. On clear nights in autumn and winter there is a good chance of the Northern Lights, with very little light pollution.

Safety and practical tips

  • Visit Hafnarhólmi in the morning or evening when puffins are most active around the colony.
  • Do not approach or touch the puffins; watch from the platform and paths provided.
  • Check Route 94's condition before driving over the pass outside summer.
  • Stórurð is a serious day hike; bring proper boots, food and water, and check the weather first.
  • Fuel up in Egilsstaðir before heading out, since services in the village itself are limited.

Facilities and accessibility

The village has a small shop, a church and limited accommodation. There is no large supermarket or fuel station guaranteed to be open at all times, so it is worth stocking up in Egilsstaðir first.

On the map

Open in Google Maps →

Nearby places worth a stop

EgilsstaðirEgilsstaðirThe nearest town, about an hour awayStuðlagil canyonStuðlagil canyonBasalt column canyon, also reached from EgilsstaðirDyrfjöllDyrfjöllThe jagged mountain range behind the villageSeyðisfjörðurSeyðisfjörðurAnother East Iceland fjord town, with its own mountain roadFardagafossFardagafossWaterfall with a short hike, just outside EgilsstaðirGufufossGufufossRoadside waterfall on the way to Seyðisfjörður

Where to stay near Borgarfjörður eystri

There is limited guesthouse accommodation in the village itself, and most visitors either stay a night there for the full puffin and hiking experience, or base themselves in Egilsstaðir and drive over for the day.

Borgarfjörður eystri FAQ

When can I see puffins at Borgarfjörður eystri?

From mid-April to mid-August, with June and July usually the most reliable months.

How far is it from Egilsstaðir?

About 70 km, around an hour's drive over a mountain pass.

Is the road open in winter?

Not reliably. The mountain pass on Route 94 can close with snow outside the summer months.

Do I need a boat to see the puffins?

No. Hafnarhólmi is reached on foot via a short footbridge from the harbour, no boat needed.

Is Stórurð suitable for casual walkers?

It is a long, fairly demanding hike into remote terrain, better suited to prepared hikers than a casual stroll.

What is Álfaborg?

A rocky hill beside the village, said in folklore to be the home of the queen of the elves. An easy path leads to the top for a view over the fjord.

How far is Borgarfjörður eystri from Reykjavík?

Roughly 700 km by the Ring Road and Route 94, which is nine hours or more of driving. Plan it as part of a trip of a week or so around Iceland.

See Borgarfjörður eystri with a local

Tours and trips that include Borgarfjörður eystri, booked directly with a local travel agency in Iceland.

Puffins & Borgarfjörður EystriDAY TOURPuffins & Borgarfjörður EystriFrom 26,990 ISK per personVíknaslóðir Wilderness E-Bike Tour from Borgarfjörður EystriDAY TOURVíknaslóðir Wilderness E-Bike Tour from Borgarfjörður EystriFrom 19,990 ISK per personThe Grey Ridge Mountain Bike Tour in Borgarfjörður EystriDAY TOURThe Grey Ridge Mountain Bike Tour in Borgarfjörður EystriFrom 10,990 ISK per personBorgarfjörður Eystri Hiking Tour to Mt. SvartfellDAY TOURBorgarfjörður Eystri Hiking Tour to Mt. SvartfellFrom 10,990 ISK per personBorgarfjordur Eystri & PuffinsSHORE EXCURSIONBorgarfjordur Eystri & PuffinsFrom 267,799 ISK per groupNature & Wildlife RIB safari with puffinsSHORE EXCURSIONNature & Wildlife RIB safari with puffinsFrom 48,500 ISK per person
More places in East Iceland