Iceland Travel GuideLOCAL TRAVEL AGENCY IN ICELAND
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Iceland Travel GuideLOCAL TRAVEL AGENCY IN ICELAND
My trip
Talk to a local
Hvalfjörður ("Whale Fjord") is a roughly 30-kilometre fjord in West Iceland, just north of Reykjavík, mostly bypassed today by the Hvalfjörður Tunnel. It is free to drive, open all year, and worth the detour for the Glymur waterfall hike and quiet coastal scenery, adding about an hour compared with the tunnel.
Before the tunnel opened in 1998, every journey between Reykjavík and West or North Iceland went the long way around Hvalfjörður, adding roughly an hour to the drive. Most traffic now takes the tunnel, which means Route 47 around the fjord itself is far quieter than it used to be. You can often drive long stretches of it without meeting another car, and it makes a pleasant, slower alternative for anyone not in a hurry.
The fjord takes its name from the whales once hunted here, and Iceland's only whaling station still stands on its shore. During the Second World War, Hvalfjörður sheltered Allied naval convoys, and traces of that period remain if you know where to look. Today the main draw is Glymur, at 198 m Iceland's second-tallest waterfall, reached by a hiking trail from the head of the fjord.
In summer the slopes are green right down to the water, with steep mountains on both sides and very little traffic noise. It is a good place for birdwatching, and seals are sometimes seen from the shore. If you want a calm day close to Reykjavík, this is one of the easiest to arrange.
Iceland's only whaling station has operated on the shore of Hvalfjörður since the mid-20th century, and the fjord is named after its whales. It was also a major herring ground in earlier decades, which is remembered in the name of the old trail Síldarmannagötur, "the herring men's path".
During the Second World War, Allied forces used the deep, sheltered waters of Hvalfjörður as a naval base and convoy assembly point. Remnants of that wartime infrastructure can still be spotted along the shore, and a small war museum on the north side of the fjord tells the story of the occupation years.
The tunnel has been toll-free since 28 September 2018, so the choice between the two routes is only about time and scenery. Hvalfjörður is less than an hour from Reykjavík and easy to find, but few people drive Route 47, so do not expect much passing traffic if you need help.
The fjord is more than a drive. These are the stops and walks worth planning time for.
Stay on marked paths at Glymur. The canyon edges are unfenced and the drop is long.
You can visit Hvalfjörður all year. In winter, check the weather forecast and road conditions before you set out, pack a warm jacket and boots with good grip, and plan around the short daylight.
There are few services directly on the fjord road. Akranes at the north end and the Reykjavík area at the south end have fuel, shops and restaurants.
Most visitors see Hvalfjörður as a day drive from Reykjavík, less than an hour away, or as a stop on the way to West Iceland or Snæfellsnes. If you want to stay, there are guesthouses, cabins to rent, a hotel and campsites around the fjord, and more choice in Akranes and Borgarnes. Camping is a good option in summer but too cold for most people in winter.
No. The tunnel toll was dropped in September 2018, and Route 47 around the fjord has always been free. The fjord road takes about an hour longer than the tunnel.
If you have time and want quieter scenery or plan to hike to Glymur, yes; if you are short on time, the tunnel is the practical choice.
Around 3–4 hours round trip, including a river crossing, on a moderate trail from the head of the fjord.
The road around the fjord stays open, but the Glymur hiking trail can be icy or the river unsafe to cross.
Driving north from Reykjavík on Route 1, turn right onto Route 47 just before the tunnel entrance.
It is kept open, but it is lightly travelled and can be slippery. Use winter tyres, drive carefully and check the forecast first.
Tours and trips that include Hvalfjörður, booked directly with a local travel agency in Iceland.
