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Borgarnes is a town of about 2,000 people on a small peninsula in West Iceland, about 75 km (around 1 hour) from Reykjavík. It is a natural stop on the way to Snæfellsnes or further north, free to walk around, open all year, with fuel, shops and a museum on Iceland's early settlement.
Borgarnes sits on the Ring Road just after it crosses Borgarfjarðarbrú, one of Iceland's longest bridges, and is the first proper town most travellers reach heading north or west out of Reykjavík. It has long been a service centre for the surrounding farming district, and today it works well as a fuel and food stop or a short break to stretch your legs.
The town has strong roots in Iceland's saga literature. It sits close to Borg, the farm of Skalla-Grímur and his son Egill Skallagrímsson, the central figure of Egil's Saga, one of the best-known Icelandic sagas. The Settlement Center, in two of the town's oldest buildings, tells the story of Iceland's earliest settlers and of Egil's Saga through exhibitions aimed at visitors rather than saga scholars.
The town itself is small enough to see on foot. Skallagrímsgarður is a small public park in the middle of Borgarnes, sheltered by trees and good for a quiet half hour or a picnic; it has a place in Egil's Saga, and there is plenty of birdlife. The swimming pool is a short walk away, with indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs and a steam bath fed with steam from Deildartunguhver.
From the old part of town you can walk over the short bridge to Brákarey island, stop at the cove Englendingavík, and let children loose at Bjössaróló, a home-made playground by the shore near the Settlement Center. Across the fjord stands Hafnarfjall, and on a clear day the walking path along the shore has a view all the way to Snæfellsjökull. People have lived on this peninsula since Iceland's earliest days, more than a thousand years ago.
Egill Skallagrímsson, the poet-warrior at the heart of Egil's Saga, grew up at Borg, right by modern Borgarnes. The saga follows his violent, complicated life from childhood through raids abroad and old age at home, and it is one of the richest character studies in Old Norse literature. The Settlement Center in town uses models, art and audio guides to walk visitors through both the saga and the wider settlement period, without requiring any prior knowledge of the text.
The stretch of Route 1 below Hafnarfjall, just south of the bridge, is known for strong gusts. In windy weather check umferdin.is before you drive, especially with a campervan or a high-sided vehicle.
Borgarnes is often the first stop on a trip around Iceland or to the Snæfellsnes peninsula, and it is a good base for the waterfalls of Borgarfjörður.
Borgarnes is seen by locals as the cultural centre of the district, and its museums are worth an hour or two.
Opening hours and admission change; confirm on each museum's own website before you visit.
Whatever the season, pack a warm, windproof jacket and boots with a good grip. Weather changes fast here and paths near waterfalls are often wet or icy.
Fuel stations (N1 and Olís), supermarkets, cafés and restaurants, a swimming pool, hotels and guesthouses, and a farmers' market. It is one of the best-equipped towns between Reykjavík and Snæfellsnes.
Borgarnes itself has hotels, guesthouses and hostel-style rooms with shared kitchens at the budget end, several with views over the fjord. It works well as an overnight base for exploring West Iceland or as a stop en route to Snæfellsnes or the north. Book ahead in summer. If you would rather drive yourself than join a tour from Reykjavík, choose a rental car to fit your group and luggage.
Yes, for fuel, food and a break from driving, and the Settlement Center is a good short museum visit.
About 75 km from Reykjavík city centre, around an hour by car on Route 1.
It is linked to Egil's Saga and serves as the main service town for West Iceland and the gateway to Snæfellsnes.
The waterfalls Hraunfossar, Barnafoss and Glanni, the hike to Glymur in Hvalfjörður, Deildartunguhver hot spring and the Snæfellsnes peninsula are all within easy reach.
It is a stop in every season. Summer is best for hiking and the waterfalls; winter brings snow on the mountains and short days, with storms that can affect the roads.
Visit the Settlement Center, walk through Skallagrímsgarður park and out to Brákarey island, and swim in the town pool with its hot tubs.
Tours and trips that include Borgarnes, booked directly with a local travel agency in Iceland.