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Vatnajökull glacier

Southeast IcelandGlacierGuided access onlyOpen all year
VATNAJÖKULL IN SHORT

Vatnajökull is Iceland's largest glacier and, by volume, the largest ice cap in Europe, covering around 7,700 km², about 8% of the country. Its outlet glaciers reach down towards the Ring Road in the southeast, near Jökulsárlón and Skaftafell, about 330–380 km (4.5–5.5 hours) from Reykjavík. You cannot walk on the ice without a guide, but glacier hikes and, in winter, ice cave tours run daily from bases near Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón.

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About Vatnajökull

Vatnajökull covers an area larger than all the glaciers in mainland Europe combined, with an average ice thickness of about 380 metres and a maximum of nearly 1,000 metres in places. Underneath it lie several active volcanic systems, including Grímsvötn and Bárðarbunga, whose heat melts channels through the ice and occasionally triggers sudden floods known as jökulhlaup when meltwater bursts out from under the glacier.

The name means “Water Glacier” or “glacier of lakes”. The ice cap has around 30 named outlet glaciers and is the heart of Vatnajökull National Park, which was founded in 2008. Older guides give its area as about 8,100 km²; it has shrunk since, and current figures are closer to 7,700 km².

From the Ring Road, you see Vatnajökull as a series of outlet glaciers, long tongues of ice that flow down from the main ice cap into the valleys below. Skaftafellsjökull, Svínafellsjökull and Falljökull are among the most visited, all reachable on short walks from parking areas, though walking onto the ice itself always needs a guide because of hidden crevasses.

Vatnajökull is retreating, like most of the world's glaciers, and outlet glaciers such as Svínafellsjökull have visibly thinned and pulled back within a couple of decades. Guides who have worked the same glacier for years are often the best source of how much a particular tongue has changed.

Quick facts

AreaAbout 7,700 km², around 8% of Iceland
Average thicknessAbout 380 m
Maximum thicknessAround 950 m
Highest pointHvannadalshnjúkur, 2,110 m (part of Öræfajökull)
Outlet glaciersAround 30
National parkVatnajökull National Park, founded 2008
RegionSoutheast Iceland, within Vatnajökull National Park
From Reykjavík (Skaftafell)About 330 km, around 4–5 hours by car
From Reykjavík (Jökulsárlón)About 380 km, around 5–5.5 hours by car
AccessGlacier hikes and ice cave tours only with a certified guide
OpeningGlacier hikes year-round; natural ice caves mainly November–March

A glacier with volcanoes underneath

Vatnajökull sits over some of the most active parts of Iceland's volcanic system. Grímsvötn, hidden under the ice, is one of the country's most frequently erupting volcanoes, and its eruptions can send ash through the ice or trigger jökulhlaup, floods of meltwater and ice that surge down rivers such as Skeiðará. The 1996 Gjálp eruption released one of the largest such floods in living memory, destroying sections of the Ring Road and a bridge that had to be rebuilt.

Three volcanoes under the ice stand out: Grímsvötn, Bárðarbunga and Öræfajökull, the last of which carries Hvannadalshnjúkur on its rim. More eruptions are certain, though nobody can say when. A large one can affect far more than the area around the glacier, disrupting air travel and farming and, in the biggest cases, the weather well beyond Iceland.

This restless ground beneath the ice is part of why guides take glacier safety seriously. Crevasses can be hidden by fresh snow, and geothermal heat can thin the ice unpredictably in places, which is why solo access onto Vatnajökull is not allowed.

How to get to Vatnajökull

On a guided tourA glacier hike or ice cave tour is the only way to actually get onto the ice. Most tours meet at Skaftafell or at Jökulsárlón, and some include transport from Reykjavík or a South Coast meeting point.
By carLeave Reykjavík on Route 1 heading east, over Hellisheiði to Hveragerði and Selfoss, and simply stay on the Ring Road. You pass Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi, Skógafoss and Vík, then cross the black sands of Mýrdalssandur to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, about 255 km from Reykjavík. Around here you get your first views of the ice cap. Carry on to the Skaftafell or Jökulsárlón area to see the outlet glaciers from marked viewpoints, then join a tour for access onto the ice itself.
By public transportSeasonal buses run along the Ring Road in summer and stop near Skaftafell, but reaching the glacier itself still requires a booked tour.
ParkingParking is available at Skaftafell and near Jökulsárlón, with a fee at some of these car parks.

Never approach the ice without a guide. Crevasses are often invisible from the surface, and rescue from the glacier is difficult.

Outlet glaciers and glacial rivers

Outlet glaciers are tongues of ice that flow out from the ice cap and are held in by the valley sides. Vatnajökull has them on every side, and each one feeds a river.

SouthBreiðamerkurjökull, which calves into Jökulsárlón, and the very broad Skeiðarárjökull are the main outlets, with Skaftafellsjökull, Svínafellsjökull and Falljökull between them. Most glacial rivers run this way: Jökulsá í Lóni, Hornafjarðarfljót, Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi, Skeiðará, Núpsvötn, Hverfisfljót and Skaftá.
WestSíðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull flow west towards the highlands. Their meltwater feeds Tungnaá and Kaldakvísl, which join Þjórsá, Iceland’s longest river.
NorthDyngjujökull is the main outlet on the north side. Jökulsá á Fjöllum, the river of Dettifoss, and Skjálfandafljót, the river of Goðafoss, both start here.
North-eastJökulsá á Brú and Jökulsá í Fljótsdal drain the north-eastern edge towards East Iceland.

Things to do on Vatnajökull

The easiest access to the glacier is from the south, where the outlet glaciers come down almost to the Ring Road.

Glacier hikesGuided walks on the outlet glaciers around Skaftafell run all year. You get crampons, an ice axe and a helmet, and the guide picks a route through the crevasses. Longer tours add ice climbing.
Ice cavesIn winter, roughly November to March, guides take small groups into natural ice caves under the outlet glaciers, mostly from the Jökulsárlón side. The caves are different every year.
HvannadalshnjúkurIceland’s highest peak, 2,110 m, sits on the rim of the Öræfajökull volcano on the southern edge of the ice cap. It is climbed on a very long guided day, mainly in spring, around late April and May, when snow still covers the crevasses and the weather allows.
Snowmobile and super-jeep toursSome tours drive up onto the ice cap itself for snowmobiling on the open snowfields, and in winter these are sometimes combined with an ice cave. Seasons vary by operator and conditions.

Every activity on the ice needs a guide. The viewpoints, lagoons and walks to the glacier edges are free to visit on your own.

Best time to visit Vatnajökull

Summer (June–August)Longest days and the easiest driving, with glacier hikes running daily and blue ice visible in the crevasses. Also the busiest time for tours.
Winter (November–March)Natural ice caves form under parts of the glacier and can be visited with a guide, offering deep blue ice formations. Conditions depend entirely on the season's weather.

Natural ice caves are unpredictable and change every year, so tour operators only confirm access once conditions are checked each season.

Safety and practical tips

  • Book a certified guide for any glacier walk or ice cave visit. Never go onto the ice alone.
  • Wear sturdy boots; crampons and equipment are usually provided by the tour operator.
  • Bring warm layers even in summer. Wind off the ice is cold.
  • Ice caves are only accessible with specific operators licensed for that season's conditions.
  • Check road conditions on umferdin.is before driving the Ring Road in this area in winter.

Facilities and accessibility

There are no facilities directly at the glacier edge. Toilets, cafés and shops are at the Skaftafell visitor centre and around Jökulsárlón. Tour operators typically meet clients at car parks near the glacier.

On the map

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Nearby places worth a stop

SkaftafellSkaftafellBase for glacier hikes onto Vatnajökull's outlet glaciersJökulsárlónJökulsárlónGlacier lagoon fed by a Vatnajökull outlet glacierFjallsárlónFjallsárlónA quieter lagoon on another outlet glacierVatnajökull National ParkVatnajökull National ParkThe park built around the glacierHöfnHöfnFishing town and base for the eastern side of the glacierSvínafellsjökullSvínafellsjökullOutlet glacier you can walk up to near Skaftafell

Where to stay near Vatnajökull

Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Skaftafell and Höfn all have hotels and guesthouses within reach of glacier tour meeting points, so you can start a hike early rather than driving in from further away.

Vatnajökull FAQ

Can I walk on Vatnajökull without a guide?

No. Hidden crevasses make it unsafe, and guided glacier hikes are the only recommended way onto the ice.

How big is Vatnajökull?

About 7,700 km², roughly 8% of Iceland's land area, making it the largest ice cap in Europe by volume.

Can you visit ice caves at Vatnajökull in summer?

Natural blue ice caves are mainly a winter activity (November–March). Some man-made ice tunnels, for example on Langjökull, run year-round, but that is a different glacier.

Is Vatnajökull shrinking?

Yes, like most glaciers worldwide it has been retreating, and some outlet glaciers have thinned noticeably over the past two decades.

Is Vatnajökull the largest glacier in Europe?

By volume, yes. It is also by far the largest glacier in Iceland. A few Arctic ice caps, on Svalbard and Novaya Zemlya, cover a slightly larger area.

Where do you first see Vatnajökull when driving from Reykjavík?

Around Kirkjubæjarklaustur, about 255 km along the Ring Road. From there to Höfn the ice cap and its outlet glaciers are in view for much of the drive.

See Vatnajökull with a local

Tours and trips that include Vatnajökull, booked directly with a local travel agency in Iceland.

Crystal Ice Cave in IcelandDAY TOURCrystal Ice Cave in IcelandFrom 19,330 ISK per personSnowmobile on VatnajokullDAY TOURSnowmobile on VatnajokullFrom 31,500 ISK per personVatnajokull Ice CaveDAY TOURVatnajokull Ice CaveFrom 36,900 ISK per personVatnajökull Super Jeep TourDAY TOURVatnajökull Super Jeep TourFrom 62,000 ISK per personVatnajokull Ice CaveDAY TOURVatnajokull Ice CaveFrom 23,900 ISK per personEarly Bird Ice Cave Tour in Vatnajokull + Pro Photo PackageDAY TOUREarly Bird Ice Cave Tour in Vatnajokull + Pro Photo PackageFrom 21,500 ISK per person
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