Rjúkandi waterfall in Jökuldalur valley

About Rjúkandi

Rjúkandi drops in two stages down a steep hillside beside the Ring Road, fed by the Ysta-Rjúkandi stream. The name means roughly "the smoking one", a reference to the spray that rises off the falls, especially in a strong wind. It is one of several waterfalls along this stretch of road through Jökuldalur, and its roadside location makes it an easy stop without a detour.

The waterfall is about 93 metres high in all. The upper drop, about 60 metres, starts as two channels sliding over the bedrock and then falls free; below it, a second drop of about 33 metres fans out in a horsetail down the rock. From the road you mostly see the lower part, which is why many people drive past thinking it is just another roadside cascade.

The water flows into the Jökulsá á Brú, the same glacial river that runs through Stuðlagil canyon further downstream. A short path from the car park leads a few hundred metres upstream to the base of the falls, giving a closer view of the two drops.

The Jökulsá á Brú itself carries far less water than it used to. Since 2007 most of its glacial meltwater has been held back by the Kárahnjúkar dam, which feeds Iceland's largest power plant, and that is also why the basalt columns at Stuðlagil are now above the waterline. Rjúkandi is not affected: its stream comes off the heath above the valley, strongest in the spring thaw and after rain.

Quick facts

How to get to Rjúkandi

This stretch of Route 1 is paved and kept open year-round, though winter driving still needs care for ice and wind, especially in exposed sections of Jökuldalur.

The walk to the falls

From the car park the path follows the stream uphill to a viewpoint at the foot of the lower drop, about 300 metres from the road. This is as far as most people go, and it takes five minutes each way.

If you want to see both tiers properly, a rougher path continues up the slope beside the falls to a higher viewpoint facing the upper drop. It is steep and can be slippery with spray, so only go up in dry conditions and in shoes with grip, and turn back if the ground is icy.

Bring a waterproof jacket and something warm even for this short stop. The valley is open and windy, the weather changes quickly, and the spray will find your camera or phone if you stand close.

Best time to visit Rjúkandi

Safety and practical tips

• It is an easy stop if you are already driving the Ring Road through East Iceland; no detour needed.
• The path to the base can be wet and slippery from spray, so wear proper shoes.
• Watch your footing near the bridge and riverbank, especially with children.
• Combine it with Stuðlagil canyon and Hengifoss, both nearby on the same route.
• Keep cameras and phones covered near the base; the spray carries a long way in wind.
• Stop here on the drive between Egilsstaðir and Mývatn to break up a long stretch with few services.

Facilities and accessibility

No facilities at the falls themselves. Fuel, food and shops are available in Egilsstaðir.

On the map

Nearby places worth a stop

Stuðlagil canyonBasalt column canyon on the same riverEgilsstaðirMain town of East Iceland, about 50 km awayGeirsstaðakirkjaReconstructed turf church north of EgilsstaðirHengifossTall waterfall in striped basalt cliffsLitlanesfossWaterfall framed by basalt columns, on the Hengifoss trail

Borgarfjörður eystriRemote fjord village, puffin colony

Where to stay near Rjúkandi

Egilsstaðir is the natural base for this area, with the widest choice of hotels and guesthouses in East Iceland, and it puts Rjúkandi, Hengifoss and Stuðlagil all within easy reach.

Rjúkandi FAQ