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Fáskrúðsfjörður, the French village of the Eastfjords

East IcelandVillageFrench heritageMuseum open summer
FÁSKRÚÐSFJÖRÐUR IN SHORT

Fáskrúðsfjörður is a small fishing village in the Eastfjords of Iceland, known for its French history and French street signs. It is about 50 km from Egilsstaðir and well over 600 km from Reykjavík. The village is free to walk around, the French museum is open in summer, and a few hours is enough.

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About Fáskrúðsfjörður

French fishermen came to Iceland's coast for centuries to fish for cod, and from about 1880 until the 1930s Fáskrúðsfjörður was their main base in the east. At the height of the fishing seasons thousands of French sailors passed through. The village still remembers them: street names are shown in French as well as Icelandic, and the town has a twinning link with Gravelines in northern France, where many of the ships sailed from.

The main sight is the old French hospital, built in the early 1900s. It has been restored and now houses a hotel and restaurant together with the French museum, which tells the story of the fishermen and the people who cared for them. Outside the village there is a graveyard for French and Belgian sailors who died here, and a memorial to the polar explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot.

Around the village you can walk along the shore and up the slopes, with views over the fjord. In summer, puffins and other seabirds nest on Skrúður island just off the coast. The island is hard to land on, so most people just enjoy the view from the mainland or take a local boat trip if one is running.

The village itself is officially called Búðir, but everyone uses the name of the fjord. The fjord lies between the headlands of Vattarnes and Hafnarnes, and its name is linked to the island of Skrúður off its mouth. At the head of the fjord there is a sheltered valley with birch woodland, which is unusual for the Eastfjords.

Quick facts

RegionEast Iceland, in the Eastfjords
From EgilsstaðirAbout 50 km, around 45 minutes by car, via Reyðarfjörður and the tunnel
From ReykjavíkOver 600 km, about 8 to 9 hours by car
PopulationAround 660 people
French museumIn the restored 1903 French hospital, open in summer (check current hours)
EntryFree to walk around the village; museum has an entry fee
RoadPaved. Route 1 from Reyðarfjörður through the Fáskrúðsfjörður tunnel, then a short stretch of Route 955 into the village
Time needed1 to 3 hours

The French in the east

French cod fishing around Iceland goes back to the 1500s, but the fleets grew large in the 19th century. Fáskrúðsfjörður became a trading post in 1880 and then the base for French ships on the east coast. France built a hospital, a chapel and other buildings here to look after its sailors, and many men who died at sea or in illness were buried in the village graveyard.

The French presence faded in the early 20th century as the fishing changed. The buildings were restored between about 2010 and 2014, and the old hospital was given a new life as a museum and hotel. Each summer the village still holds a French festival, with music, food and games such as pétanque.

How to get to Fáskrúðsfjörður

By carFrom Egilsstaðir, follow Route 1 to Reyðarfjörður, then continue on Route 1 through the Fáskrúðsfjörður tunnel. At the head of the fjord, turn onto Route 955 for the last few kilometres into the village. The alternative is the older coastal road, Route 955 around the Vattarnes headland, which is slower but has wide views of the fjords and of Skrúður island. Winter weather in the east can be severe.
By public transportThere is limited local bus service in the Eastfjords. Check the timetable with Strætó or the local information office before you plan around it. Most visitors come by car.
On the Ring RoadThe Ring Road now follows the fjords here, so Fáskrúðsfjörður is only a few minutes off Route 1. If you drive the country anticlockwise, with the south coast first, you reach it after Stöðvarfjörður. If you come from the north, you reach it after Reyðarfjörður and the tunnel. It fits well on the drive between Egilsstaðir and Djúpivogur, and you can also combine it with Reyðarfjörður and Eskifjörður.

The fjord has been connected to the neighbouring villages by tunnel for years, so the drive is much easier than the old mountain roads. In winter, check road conditions on umferdin.is before you set out.

Walks and things to see around Fáskrúðsfjörður

The French history is the main reason to stop, but the fjord has good short walks too.

The French quarterStart at the old French hospital and its museum, then walk the streets with their French names. In the village's busiest years France also kept a consul and a chapel here. The graveyard of the French and Belgian sailors is just outside the village.
Paths above the villageWalking paths run between the avalanche defence walls on the slope above the houses. They are easy to follow and give a wide view over the fjord and the mountains.
GilsárfossA pleasant trail starts from Vattarnesvegur (Route 955) on the east side of the village and follows the Gilsá river up to the Gilsárfoss waterfall.
The head of the fjordAt the inner end of the fjord you can walk on the black sand by the shore and in the birch woodland of the valley. Anglers fish the Dalsá river; ask locally about permits before you fish.
Skrúður from the coast roadRoute 955 around Vattarnes gives the best views of Skrúður. The island is ringed by high cliffs and is home to puffins and gannets in summer. It also has a large cave where sailors sometimes took shelter.
SandfellThe pale rhyolite mountain on the south side of the fjord is Sandfell, 743 m high, with a marked hiking trail for a longer day out.

Other Eastfjords villages are close enough to combine in a day or two: Reyðarfjörður, Eskifjörður and Seyðisfjörður to the north, and Borgarfjörður eystri, about 120 km away, for puffins, hiking and elf stories.

Best time to visit Fáskrúðsfjörður

Summer (June–August)The French museum is open, birds nest along the coast and the days are long. The French festival is held in the summer, so book a room early if you want to be here for it.
Winter (October–April)Quiet, with short days and snow on the mountains. The museum is closed outside the summer season, but it is still a good place to see the Northern Lights away from bright lights.

Museum opening dates change, so check them before you visit.

Safety and practical tips

  • Check the museum's opening hours. It has been open mainly from June to mid-September.
  • Bring waterproof layers. Weather in the Eastfjords changes fast and fog is common.
  • Fill up with fuel in Egilsstaðir or Reyðarfjörður before driving on to the south.
  • Respect the graveyard and memorial sites. They are places of remembrance.
  • Watch for wildlife rules on Skrúður island. Do not land during the nesting season.

Facilities and accessibility

The village has a hotel and restaurant in the old French hospital, a campsite, a couple of cafés, a swimming pool and a shop. Fuel is available in the village. There is a visitor information point in the centre.

On the map

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Nearby places worth a stop

ReyðarfjörðurReyðarfjörðurThe next fjord to the north, through the tunnelEskifjörðurEskifjörðurSmall fishing village with a mining museumStöðvarfjörðurStöðvarfjörðurQuiet village with a famous mineral collectionDjúpivogurDjúpivogurFishing village on the way southEgilsstaðirEgilsstaðirThe main town in East Iceland · about 50 kmSeyðisfjörðurSeyðisfjörðurColourful fjord village with the ferry harbour
Borgarfjörður eystriPuffins, hiking trails and elf folklore · about 120 km

Where to stay near Fáskrúðsfjörður

You can stay in the village itself, including in the old French hospital, and there are guesthouses and campsites around the Eastfjords. Egilsstaðir has the widest choice of hotels, guesthouses and restaurants if you want a base for the whole east coast.

Fáskrúðsfjörður FAQ

Why does Fáskrúðsfjörður have French street signs?

French fishermen used the village as their base for cod fishing from about 1880 into the early 20th century. The signs are a tribute to that history and to the village's link with the French town of Gravelines.

Is the French museum worth visiting?

Yes, if you like local history. It is in the restored French hospital and tells the story of the fishermen, the hospital and the graveyard. It is small, so about an hour is enough.

How far is Fáskrúðsfjörður from Reykjavík?

Well over 600 km by road, roughly 8 to 9 hours of driving. Most people reach it as part of a Ring Road trip and stay overnight in the east.

How long should I stay?

A few hours is enough to see the village, the museum and the graveyard. Stay overnight if you want to walk in the fjord or attend the French festival.

Can I see puffins here?

Puffins nest on Skrúður island in summer, and you may see them from the coast. The island is not easy to visit, so a local boat trip is the best option if one is offered.

More places in East Iceland