Private South Coast & Katla Ice Cave Tour

Seljalandsfoss drops 60 metres from what was once the edge of the coastline, before sea levels fell after the last ice age. The Seljalandsá river is fed by meltwater from Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano that erupted in 2010 and grounded flights across Europe. It is one of the few waterfalls in Iceland with a path behind the falling water, so expect to get wet and bring a waterproof jacket.

Gljúfrabúi means 'canyon dweller', and the fall lives up to it: about 40 metres high, it hides inside a narrow, moss-covered gorge with only a sliver visible from outside. A flat path of about ten minutes leads north from Seljalandsfoss, and the last stretch is a short wade along a shallow stream between the rock walls. It is much quieter than its famous neighbour, and you will get wet from the spray.

Skógafoss falls in one broad curtain about 60 metres high and 25 metres wide, right beside the village of Skógar. On sunny days the spray usually throws a rainbow, sometimes a double one, across the pool at its base. A staircase of 527 steps leads to a viewpoint at the top, where you can see the river before it drops.

Kvernufoss, 'mill waterfall', drops 30 to 40 metres over a basalt ledge into a narrow green gorge just east of Skógafoss. Because it is a short walk off the road, it stays much quieter than its famous neighbour. A path leads around the side and behind the curtain of water into a shallow cave, and the walk is about 1.5 kilometres there and back.

Dyrhólaey, 'door hole island', is a headland rising 120 metres above the coast, named for the large arch the sea has cut through the rock, big enough for a boat to pass through in calm weather. The views take in the black sand beaches on either side, the glacier Mýrdalsjökull inland and the sea stacks of Reynisdrangar to the east. This is puffin country from late April to mid-August, and the upper area is often closed for a few weeks around May to protect nesting birds.

Reynisfjara is a black sand beach with the sea stacks of Reynisdrangar rising out of the water offshore. At the western end, a cliff of hexagonal basalt columns, stacked like organ pipes, stands beside the cave Hálsanefshellir. It is also one of the most dangerous beaches in Iceland, because of sudden, powerful waves that run far up the sand. Keep well back from the water and follow the warning signs.

Vík í Mýrdal is the southernmost village in Iceland, with about 750 residents, and the natural stopping point on the South Coast. It sits under the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, which covers the Katla volcano, and has a black sand beach with sea stacks, a hilltop church, a supermarket and a filling station. It is a good place for a meal or a break before the next stretch of road.

From Vík you switch from your private vehicle to a Super Jeep for the drive towards Kötlujökull, an outlet of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap. The track crosses black ash plains below the glacier, and your guide explains the volcanic landscape on the way. This is the ground around Katla, one of Iceland's largest volcanoes, which lies hidden beneath the ice.

The Katla ice cave lies under Mýrdalsjökull and, on this tour, it is open all year, not only in winter. After an easy walk of about 20 minutes on sandy ground you are given a helmet, headlamp and crampons before you go in. Inside, black layers of volcanic ash run through the blue ice. Wear hiking boots that cover the ankle, and note that there are no toilets at the cave.